Fashion 20 remakore rechi20: zvipfeko, rakarukwa, zvizoro, zvishongo

1920 rinonzi "inodzvova maviri", "inodzvova maviri", "anopenga maviri", "Golden maviri". Ndiyo nguva Jazz uye uri deco ichatonga zvine mbiri redhiyo uye mabhaisikopo, vachitamba uye mitambo yokuzvifadza kwoupenyu usiku. nguva ino, vanopukunyuka yehondo yenyika dzinoparadza, inguva yokuchinja kukuru uye mberi.

Chii chakaita fashoni?

Mumakore 20 zvakawanda zvakachinja chinzvimbo nevakadzi. Kana yapfuura, kunyange feminists vakaziva kuti wakanaka bonde kusarudza basa uye mhuri tsika, zvino vakadzi vaida chokubatanidza zvose. Chizvarwa chitsva vasunungura kuti vavashandirezve vakadzi rinonzi flepper. Kusiyana vanamai vavo uye vanambuya vakanga ndakarerwa nenzira Victorian nevatambi flepper vaingoita kushushikana vakasununguka; nguvo dzavo vari kuramba Muchifukura muviri, ivo zvakajeka kupendwa uye vakateerera Jazz, vakadzinga motokari uye kuvaka basa, aisvuta uye akatamba.

Kuwedzera nekodzero dzevanhu, hadzi nyika zvakasimba kuchinjwa World War First. Apo varume vakaenda mberi, ndizvo vakadzi kuti adzivirire michina iri mafekitari, kuchera pemigero, kutarisira vakakuvadzwa, kudzima moto uye kuita enforcers. kuchinja zvose izvi zvinoratidzwa vakadzi hunhu uye, sezvo zvakaguma pamusoro fashoni rokuwomba maviri.

Munyika fashoni nhoroondo iyi yakanga chaizvoizvo pakona pfungwa. Zvinochinja saka zvikuru kuti zvakanga muna 1920, unogona tara mutsetse wakajeka pakati fashoni remakore rechi19, Zviitiko akanga akanzwa kunyange pamberi hondo, uye nokurongerwa remakore rechi20. Corsets uye refu pamipendero regai zvinodiwa ano enyaradzo uye functionality, akanyangarika sebvudzi rakarukwa uye rakapamhamha-akazara heti, madhirezi chekawo kunova nyore fasteners vanotama kubva kudzokera chipfuva, zvose zvikuru zvakafanana itsva "mheni", nokurongerwa ndiyo unisex maitiro.

pfeka

Fashion 20 remakore rechi20 zvokutaurira mutsva yakanaka zvechikadzi chitarisiko. Tenzikadzi emansipe anofanira tetepa chaizvo, pamwe yakamanikana boyish hudyu uye featureless muchipfuva. Zvino zvokuti vakadzi vane kwazvo bust perebintovyvali zvakasimba. Androgynous mufananidzo akabatsira kutsigira mutambo razova nevakawanda pakati flepper. Uye kusimbisa rinenge boyish mutete uye angularity vainzi ngaatarire siluetti zvokupfeka. chiuno mutsetse uri outfits yakadaro yakanga understated zvikuru, asi akatsvaka wake siketi kumusoro. Kana pakutanga pakati 20s zvakanga mufashoni kureba kusvika muzvitsitsinho, iri pakati yaitonga nemapfekero vakakwira ibvi, uye kunyange yakakwirira zvishoma, zvakare anodonha pasi panopera gumi. Long dzisimbe Zvibvisike uye kupa nzira kune anosungira muviri zvikuru pachena: wacho anooneka pasi chekawo-musana.

The pashure pehondo nyika vakagamuchira anonzi dansingomaniya. Zvinobatsira kutamba yakawedzera hasha, vakanga vakawanda kufarira foxtrot, Tango uye American waltz, mwoyo uye kuparadzira Charleston, Lindy Hop uye famba. Vachikurudzirwa dansingomanii vakachinja fashoni 20s. Dresses, izvo zvinofanira kuva nyore kutamba usiku kure, achiva mupfupi, akava akakurumbira Micheka kupenyerera, achibhururutsa "miswe", masa uye bead nezvakarukwa, minhenga uye mbava pamusoro makumbo - dare shangu pamwe pazvitsitsinho. Neckline kuseri chikamu kunosvika muchiuno Vakadzi, yakamanikana hudyu yakashongedzwa uta uye akapotsa sandara muchipfuva - multi-layered chishongo nemaparera.

outerwear

20s vaiva nenguva kwacho, utsanzi uye flighty pfungwa. Nokupesvedzera nemiitiro matsva achinja uye outerwear. Kana pakutanga remakore rechi20, hachisi zvakasiyana-siyana siyana, pashure pehondo, mamiriro ezvinhu anochinja zvinoshamisa: mauto akarwa mhiri kwemakungwa, akauya yakawanda pfungwa itsva kumusha. Styles dzimwe nyika kusundwa European uye American mufashoni vagadziri rokusika akaunganidzwa, apo dzakasiyana zvakanyatsobatana uye kukava chinhu Zviri chitsva. Somuenzaniso, mumakore iwayo pamusoro pakagadzirwa nematanda akaenda bhachi - jasi pasina dzisimbe, aizivikanwa munguva yedu.

Asi chinonyanya kufarirwa chimiro panze zvipfeko vakava kunozivikanwa mugoronga ( "mugoronga jasi"), akasikwa kubudikidza wokuEngland Thomas Bredberri. jasi uku isapinda gabardine kwave akanyorerwa varwi yawana rakafara kukurumbira Munyika War First uye zvinobudirira anokunda pakagadzirwa nematanda nhasi. jasi New akakunda pfungwa fashionistas ichiomba maviri. Kunyanya vakadzi Bredberri akatanga kugadzirwa kupfuura ichiyevedza uye chiedza yemashoko nyoro tishu. Mugoronga jasi akakwana akaenzana mufashoni unisex, zvinodiwa itsva zvimunakire uye kunyaradzwa.

mudhebhe

Vakadzi 20-ies nokushingaira nyanzvi hono bhora basa; Vakagara panguva achidzora iri ndege, motokari peboka taitamba mitambo. Chokwadi, fashoni 20 remakore rechi20, akaratidza zvose kuchinja: emansipe kusakara coveralls uye ndege Mabhachi, varume vanopfeka tuxedos uye nebhurukwa. Asi vakawanda, zvichida, mumwe echimurenga utsanzi kuva vakadzi bhurukwa. Kunyange zvazvo vasingagoni ndokudzinga mapfekero yakarurama siluetti, asi pajama bhurukwa vakauya Europe kubva kuIndia, zvazova mufashoni mbatya achienda kumahombekombe. Papera chinguva, kana French Artist-mugadziri Zina Lanven akatanga kusika kwezvokufuka pijama inoyerera akamendwa yakashongedzwa norwonzi, nezvakarukwa uye masa vakadzi kumboenda kunze kupfeka zvakadai mumigwagwa. Tinogona kutaura kuti pijama akava kumumvuri rokutanga trouser suit, izvo achapinda fashoni gare gare.

shangu

Kuwedzera kune pfupi madhirezi ose Jazz vachitamba dansingomaniya akapa inoomba maviri yakashongedzwa dare shangu pamwe zvebhiza, zvikuru akashongedzwa ngoda, anosungira uye simbi dzemabhande emabhurukwa. The womumhuri ichi shangu-simbi dzemabhande emabhurukwa vakanga webbed. Court shangu vaikoshesa zvinodhura chaizvo, saka nekuda kuchengetedza mumugwagwa tsvina Vakadzi kupfeka kwavo chaiyo rabha shangu, zvakada galoshes vane zvishoma indentation pamusoro yakafara chitsitsinho.

Chimwe raparadza Mwaka - dzakakwirira majombo, rinonzi Russian. fashoni vakaawarira vakabatsira zhinji vatama vachibva Russia rakatiza kunze mushure chimurenga. Vakabatsira uye nokukurumidza vachigurisira madhirezi dzemadzimai. Kokutanga, "majombo Russian" akaratidza Parisian mufashoni mugadziri Pol Puare muna 1913, akafuridzirwa rwake rwokuenda St. Petersburg uye Moscow.

heti

Fanira chokufunga mufashoni costume ari 20s vachiri ari heti, ndizvo chete vanotarira zvakasiyana. Rinooma munda frilly rakafara, kukanganwa nguwani uye Hoods. At yepamusoro kukurumbira - heti-Cloche mune bhero. Chitarisiko chake Cloche vaitire milliner French Caroline neRebha, "mambokadzi" ngowani fashoni. Kwakadaro Headwear vasonanidza inowanzopiwa zvakagadzirwa vainzwa, vherevheti kana satin, horsehair, akanzwa kana mashanga. heti-akabvumira Cloche kuvanza bvudzi, vakanga vakasununguka uye inoshanda. Kunze kwavari, nenguva Jazz Vakadzi vakasarudza berets uye nguwani. Evening neheti pebhanhire yakashongedzwa decoration stitches, satin RIBBONS, maruva uye rhinestones, minhenga uye nezvikorekedzo.

Mushure kutama kubva Russia kuEurope uye United States munyika pakarepo inoparusa kupinda Western fashoni tradition Russian headgear - kokoshnik. Runogona kutaurwa zvakarurama kunzi inonyanya kufarirwa che National costume nguva pakati nyika hondo. Vakadzi Fashion 20, anoda kupfeka kokoshnik-korona Muchato, uye akasununguka reinterpreted makopi kuva chikamu kupfeka nezuva. Zina Lanven kunyange kusunungurwa dzakaunganidzwa inonzi heti Russian, uye fashoni imba inotengeswa kokoshniki epurasitiki.

zvishongedzo

Designers 20s kusika zvokupfeka vakasarudzwa satin, vherevheti uye sirika. A chaiye kuwanikwa anova Jersey: muzana remakore rechi19 nokuti vakasonanidza chete pachena andapeni nezvokupfeka vanhu kubva zvidzidzo rezasi, muna dzinoomba maviri, akagura pamusoro nechigadziko ake. Fur kuzoramba chikamu outerwear: Vakadzi-vanopfeka flepper Pestsovoye kana Sable namatehwe pamusoro miti pamafudzi, kureva avo kupfeka manheru. An hunokosha chishongedzo inova refu mudzanga pedhi mudzanga mhosva uye Artsy.

Fashion 20 remakore rechi20 vakanakidzwa kufinhwa kuti zvokupfeka, asi nekuda kupera kwavo kwakanga zvikuru akapfuma. Clothing akashongedzwa marozari, masa nezvakarukwa. Kusimba mukurumbira vari chevarwere motifs: vakadzi vanosarudza Chinese nomusoni uye mazano Persian. The Kuwanika muna 1922 muguva pakati Tutankhamun muna Chirungu matongo Howard Carter kwakatungamirira Egyptomania anenge achivharwa yose nyika dzokuMadokero. The zvimbuzi vauya zvakazadza fashoni zvakasiyana mavara runozivisa tsika muIjipiti, geometric siyana mifananidzo yekare, vanhu uye mutsika dzemitambo, beaded mabhegi uye neminhenga Boa.

Chokwadi, vanhu vakawanda zvekumwe kwakakanganisa unyanzvi zvishongo, uye fashoni zvishongo riri zvaisanganisira. Zvichida mukuru chishongo kwevakadzi 20s muri marozari kubva namaparera. Vari akamonera kanoverengeka kumativi pamutsipa, uye yakadereresa weDanho wavo aigona kusvika muhudyu. Dzimwe nguva kusarudza rhinestone pachinzvimbo nemaparera. Kunze marozari, vakadzi vaipfeka guru bvudzi clip uye nezvikorekedzo, yakafara kwemadzinza zvamaoko uye makuru geometric mhete. The fashoni ndiyo korona, Sarudza kwake manheru kusakara. Chinonyanya dzakakurumbira simbi dziri Platinum nendarama chena, uye ichi nguva unyanzvi zvishongo rinonzi "chena".

Nokuda mufashoni pfupi madhirezi makuru vade matete sirika masokisi nebhanire, iyo, zvisinei, havana vose vanogona kuwana, saka panzvimbo kazhinji kutenga chakaita zvokugadzirwa. A itsva mapfekero uye akabvunza nguvo itsva; vakadzi pakati 1920s vakasarudza ibatanidzo pfupi, kururamisa, zvakasimba pamusoro, ndakabata chipfuva chake, sirika mudhebhe uye yakatetepa petticoats.

Hair nezvaari

Fashion Hairstyles 20 akaudza kusiya bvudzi refu vachifarira pfupi, anenge boyish haircut. Flepper, vanowanzotevedzera kusarudza hweta - kugadzirwa musoro "pasi mukomana" bvudzi pfupi. Zvinonzi achiva yakakurumbira pashure kusunungurwa yokufungidzira kubudikidza munyori French Victor Margherita La Garçonne ( «Bachelorette") muna 1922. Garzon ndapererwa vaviri vane bang, kana pasina, Achibuda vhudzi nzeve kuti nzeve uye aiva akasiyana chimiro. Yakanga iri nyore nyore kugadzirwa musoro kuti unobvumira vakadzi kuti kamwe zvakare varatidze kuenzana dzavo nevanhu.

Asi kwete chete pfupi akahwina mwoyo fashionistas Jazz yaitonga. Fashion makore 20-30 inopa pfupi Wavy bvudzi uye zvakatsvinda mwanda iripo kune vaya vasingadi angatsunga kuzovauraya. Chinhu chinokosha pamusoro kupfeka vari: vakanga zvakagadzirwa Micheka youmbozha, zvikuru yakashongedzwa maparera norwonzi, vakasarudzwa kuti chimwe nechimwe uye wenguo. Izvi ngadzirambe bhandeji pahuma yake uye kwainzi chiratidzo hwomutambarakede. Vakadzi emansipe uye vaipfeka hairnets: tisingabatanidzi evasingatombonamati decoration basa, ivo vanoomerera bvudzi, yakanga kunyanya kukosha panguva yomutambo manheru uye dutu vachitamba.

Bright make-kukwira mutemo unoti zvose fashionista ichiomba maviri. Delicate akacheneruka ruvara kuchinja kuti zvinhu cinematic wakagadzirwa. Mukadzi anozodza miromo inopenya tsvuku kana waini ruvara, zvinoshamisa kupenda "uta", norupo kushandiswa upfu uye Rouge, akavhomora nhete arc nevagari vayo. Cherechedzai uchifarira maziso mapfekero akanga rima guru uye gobvu dema eyeliner uye venhema eyelashes, yakashongedzwa marozari uye sequins kuti manheru kubva muchiedza. Nzira itsva kusvuta pasina kuzvidzora kunodiwa kutarisa maoko, saka ari 1920s sevanhu chitsvuku chipikiri wePolish.

Evanhu fashoni

Muna 1920 akatanga "pakaoma" mutemo muUnited States, doro hakubvumidzwi kugadzira, tengesa vavore munyika. Yaifanira kuderedza kukura kwemhosva, matambudziko evanhu uye kusimbisa utano vokuAmerica, asi zvose ndakadzidzawo zvakasiyana: vari kushingaira kutanga uori uye nechitsotsi muUnited States. Members vezvikwata zvematsotsi pakuzivikanwa zvikwata zvomumigwagwa. American Fashion makore 20-30 kuwira pasi kwavo simba: Varume, tichitevedzera manyorero musoro tsotsi nyika Al Kapone, vanopfeka rima kaviri chipfuva masutu mu pinstripe muenzaniso kana "herringbone", mbiri-matauriro shangu uye akanzwa heti, suspenders uye cuff Links, mhete uye varindi

Evanhu fashoni makore 20 uye popularize dzekare manyorerwo. Kuchinja evanhu suit bhachi vaifungidzira rurefu muchiuno uye yakamanikana mapendekete: ichi kucheka nemaziso akatambanudza siluetti. Jazz tiguu zvakonzerawo kupararira chete zita suit pamwe yakamanikana mudhebhe uye akanyatsokodzerwa bhachi. Mumwe Muitiro, iro rakabuda Oxford - yakafarikana flannel mudhebhe. Vakatanga kupfeka kuvanza vatambi masokisi kuti kuwa pasi yakaoma chipingaidzo. Tailcoat zvishoma nezvishoma ikaramba ichiserera kupinda kare, kuti atsive iye anouya mupfupi tuxedo.

Russian fashoni

Kwete chete West akabata echimurenga fashoni itsva makore 20. Russia - kana panzvimbo, atova Soviet Union - aiedza kuramba aine pose kuitikawo kunge yakasvinwa paruwa, pakanga pasina "keteni yesimbi". Panguva ino, zvakanga akazarura rokutanga muSoviet Union "Workshop kuti panguva inoita." Russian uye Soviet mufashoni neemhizha Nadezhda Lamanova paakarayirwa kuti kusika mushandi-murimi mudiki fashoni, asi akagovera chisingakoshi jira. A Papera akasika "Couture" rine panguva yayo dziripo brocade, vherevheti, sirika, nechisimba kubva ndiri werudzi vanotodzoka.

NEP muSoviet Union chakatsiva chakaparadzwa uye urombo akabhururuka chains-garde pfungwa uye constructivist urongwa mudenga. Women of USSR, sapamazuva West, anonziwo havo boyish mufananidzo, unzenza madhirezi, heti uye zvishongo. Ivo akapfeka mutirauzi, achishingaira aisvuta, motokari uye kuita zvemitambo. Hair Soviet fashionista yakapfupika sheared, asi, mukusiyana vakadzi American uye European vaida kwete dzakapeterera. Avant akaita akasuma mufashoni geometric chishongo aishongedza zvechikadzi outfits. Constructivists hembe veimba chabvisa zvose Chaingodiwa yebongozozo zvinyama - tucks, pleats uye hand cuffs.

Zvichida, muzana remakore rapfuura zvaisangova chete gumi apo fashoni achinja chaizvo mumakore mashomanana. Fashion 20 remakore rechi20 - kutanga zvinosiyana kuberekwa zvachose itsva kuitika, zviri mufashoni.