Chii autoblock? Sezvo yakabatana kubata chikwata: Scheme

Autoblock vane hwakanyatsorwisa siyana mafomu: nayo vanokwira (sezvo tourist uye maindasitiri), uye dombo kukwira uye kutenda kwako kushayiswe, uye kununura basa. Muchidimbu, kwose pakuraramisa yakavimbika nhau kana kamwe kamwe kukundikana, kuti raiva pedyo nebundu kunoda kubatana.

Autoblock Kune mhando dzakawanda, chimwe nechimwe chinoda kuparadzana uye kwazvo mugodhi knitting unyanzvi ari chiitiko pakaita dambudziko kuti zvinhu zvakanaka. Mushure harnesses magungano Zvakakosha chaizvo kuti wakabatanidzwa zvakarurama sezvingakwanisika, kubva ichi, pasina kupamhidzira, achavaponesa hupenyu hwevanhu.

mitemo inokosha

Autoblock vane zvinoverengeka zvakasiyana-siyana zviri vachazadzwa kufungwa nezvake uye yeuka:

• Havana yakarumbidza pamusoro tambo, waya pasina kwokuruka uye kuna Repshnur uye mabhandi zvakagadzirwa Kevlar, Spectra uye Dyneema. Kutadza kuita kudaro anogona kuva ngozi kuupenyu!
• On rwakabata loop fundo havagoni kuisa chero okuwedzera nodes.
• Zvinokurudzirwa kushandisa tambo aine simba panguva yokumbozorora pamusoro 9.8 kN kusvika 7 mm dhayamita uye 7 kN kuti dhayamita 6 mm.
• It nharo kuti wakabatanidzwa rwakabata gungano kunogona pose pamusoro chikungiso. Zvisinei, kwakarungwa makomo akataura zvakasimba kushongedzera pasi apa.
• Autoblock anogona kuti kureba pasi mutoro, rinogona kushandiswa kwete chete panguva kupora, asi panguva wedzinza kubva kumusoro.
• nzira yakanakisisa yokunzwisisa chikwata inoshanda kana ukashandisa tambo, inozivikanwa nokuda dhayamita kaviri.
• Hazvina varumbidzwa kushandisa chero mhando rwakabata gungano icing at namabote, kubva kunyange kana simba richava slippage nokutsigirwa zvishwe.
• Anokosha pfuma chero rwakabata chikwata - kukwanisa yaro pakarepo seranonoka iri chiitiko ane mutoro kukundikana, kungava munhu kana zvinhu.

Prusik fundo

Wese munhu anofarira kuita rwakabata chikwata pakutanga kazhinji varumbidzwa kuita ichi mhando. Prusik zita namarudzi musiki - Karl Prusik, uyo tega muna 1931. Knot rokusunga reliever dhayamita 6 kusvika 7 mm kumativi huru waya kana tambo dhayamita kubva 9 kusvika 14 mm. Prusik chinoita pacharo sezvo kufamba pasi kana kukwira munhu, uye kana kukundikana pakarepo akasungirirwa, richipa hwakavimbika nhau.

Kwenguva yakati Prusik akatonga mukuru pakati makomo, asi nokufamba kwenguva kwave shanduro zvose iye uye batira zvinoumba zvavo zvakawanda. Zvisinei, kusvikira zvino anonzi "zvinokosha" uye anosunga kuti kudzidza.

Prusik kuberekesana urongwa huri sezvinotevera:

• netambo rakundwa, kwerubwinyo rwakagara rwuripo knotted loop;
• tambo iri muchikuvadza katatu kunhivi makirisito tambo kuitira kuti mukati loop;
• nechokwadi zvose zviri loop akakwana nokukurumidza haina vakaprofita nemumwe uye nhema sandara, unofanira sungisa kuti fundo.

French Prusik

Iye Marshara raiva pedyo nebundu. Zvinokurudzirwa kushandisa, kana zvinozivikanwa kare kuti mutoro chichaitwa chete mune imwe divi. Fita ungano sezvinotevera:

• Tambo First rakundwa, iyo yakarongwa loop.
• Zvino Achiputira kumativi makirisito tambo.
• Katatu netambo ichitenderera kumativi huru tambo. Zvakakodzera zvikuru nechokwadi kuti mumwe unozotevera turnover akaenda pedyo uye anotsvedzerera zvichienzaniswa yapfuura chijana.
• Kuti chikamu netambo zvakasara akasununguka, zviri vakayambuka loop uye akasungirirwa nenzira apo zvinhu zvinofanira kuiswa mujere.

raiva pedyo nebundu Izvi zvinoreva inonzi kukambaira, saka kutora zvakasimba asina ndakarumbidzwa naye. Zvinokwanisika siyana nhamba ritenderere musimboti tambo sezvo kunodiwa. Sezvakaita pamwe kwakajairika rwakabata chikwata chikuru tambo anofanira hazvo kuva dhayamita kupfuura pakukora Repshnur. The kuzvitonga: pedyo tambo mumwe ari dhayamita, ari kushanda zvakanaka uye nokudaro kuchengeteka French Prusik pazasi.

raiva pedyo nebundu Bachman

Asava mutendi mutsva makomo akawanda kuziva rwakabata peungano. How kuruka nayo, vanhu havana vazhinji vanoziva. Zvinonzi Kazhinji akakurudzira kusimudzira vainzi Bachman raiva pedyo nebundu. Akapfeka zita rayo kubva muvambi - Franz Bachmann. Somunhu inishuwarenzi pachake raiva pedyo nebundu iri rinoshandiswa Kazhinji.

Kuti vasunge nayo, kuita zvinotevera matanho:

• kuti wakarebesa chikamu nepfuti huru tambo;
• tatamuka tambo achishandisa carabiner, peta payo hafu kuita majana shoma (kazhinji zviviri kana zvitatu), primatyvaya carabiner uye tambo mumwe;
• Bachmann fundo akaparirwa panongovira mutoro rinobviswa kwaari, asi iye akambononoka asina nguva imwe, asi nokuti mutoro anogona vapedzisire zvishoma.

Kunewo Variants rweinishuwarenzi ichi. Somuenzaniso, chikamu-Bachmann knot. With ake Trim loop okutanga maviri kana matatu Anofukidza pamusoro tambo, uye chete ipapo (uyewo 2-3 anotendeuka) tambo aine carabiner ndaisa.

Psevdobahman - kubata gungano dhayagiramu iri sezvinotevera: wokutanga tambo rinosanganisira netambo huru kuti zvokudya pachishandiswa loop ipapo carabiner, sezvinowanzoita pamwe dzekare raiva pedyo nebundu Bachman. gungano kwakadaro kunogona kurongwa "riri nhunzi", pasina unhooking mutoro pachayo. Kunokosha! Psevdobahman anopa kwayo ukaramba ehupfumi kungobva Taut tambo kana waya. Kana ivo sag - raiva pedyo nebundu iri huchavhuniwa.

Pakupedzisira, vadzidzi Ural Polytech psevdobahmana aronga pachake umo raiva pedyo nebundu rinotanga chete njanji, sezvinowanzoita pamwe kwakajairika psevdobahmanom uye ipapo loop muitisi iri makamuisa kuti carabiner. Raiva pedyo nebundu uye zita - upi (zita rechikoro), kunyange zvazvo yaizivikanwa munyori - tourist A. Yu Yagovkin..

Raiva pedyo nebundu kaviri Kunzwisisa

Sezvakaita nedzimwe mhando inishuwarenzi, asati rwakabata miviri ruka Unit, unofanira kuva nechokwadi chokuti huru uye ebetsero namabote dzinosiyana dhayamita. Kuti, netambo kunofanira wakawondereiko kudai mazuva ose yakamisirwa tambo - optimally hafu.

Pane vaviri nzira kuti unokwanisa kusungira miviri fundo kubata. Yokutanga inopa pfungwa yokuti huru tambo fenzi yakaronga maviri batira gungano dzimwe kure nomumwe. Saka mukwiri anogona kuva nechokwadi chokuti kana kuti zvimwe chikonzero rinokundikana kunzwisisa imwe raiva pedyo nebundu - basa rechipiri.

Maererano neimwe musimboti, zvishwe vaviri akasungirirawo kumativi hwaro tambo. Saka zvinoita kuronga double uye katatu zvakafanana, ichibata rwakabata gungano.

Kunzwisisa mumwe mugumo raiva pedyo nebundu

The raiva pedyo nebundu kubata mumwe mugumo hwakasungirirwa panguva imwe zano sezvo chekare, asi haina Threaded loop inoumbwa netambo kuputirwa hafu, uye chete magumo chete.

Poluskhvatyvayuschy raiva pedyo nebundu

ungano yakadaro yakaita hafu kubata. First reliever iri wakamoneredzwa chinoumba tambo imwe dzokai, uye ipapo akaisa inotevera mumwe coils (vanofanira nyatsotarisisai kudzivisa overlaps), uye vakasununguka mugumo tambo iri Threaded ari loop. chikwata ichi hazvifaniri kushandiswa kukwira makomo, tourism uye zvichingodaro. D. Rinoshandiswa chete mumba.

Direct klemheist fundo

Kuti asimbise zvakananga rwakabata yeAustria raiva pedyo nebundu yakarumbidza dzinokosha dzeraundi tambo dhayamita kubva 9 kusvika 15 mm uye ebetsero tambo dhayamita 6 kusvika 7 mm. The mukuru musiyano iri dhayamita, akasimba ari rwakabata gungano.

Dual tambo chakamonerwa 4-6 nguva yakamisirwa tambo, pashure izvo vakasununguka magumo rayo Threaded kupinda loop nenzira kubva pasi kuti top pacharo. ungano yakadaro iri aiwanzoshandiswa siyana siyana kuyambuka.

Reverse klemheist fundo

Kana Trim chinoitwa pamusoro raiva pedyo nebundu 2-3 kaviri coils tambo vari kutwasuka wakaiswa tambo vari pasi divi. Reverse yeAustria chikwata anowana kushandisirwa yemanyorero panguva hunyambiri kufamba, kusanganisira kuva lanyard.

otomatiki keylock

A pachena chinoratidza Automatic keylock ndechokuti miromo miviri netambo haina Threaded kuburikidza nenzira loop uye carabiner wokugumisa. Mumwe ane chete patsanura navo, uye raiva pedyo nebundu pakarepo akasunungura nesimba pakati kwakavharwa nenyama tambo.

Automatic keylock iri nani kushandisa nokuti inishuwarenzi panguva dzinza kana pamukwidza. Ari zvimwe zviitiko zvikuru hwakavimbika uye ngozi pane imwe Prusik. Zvisinei, chinokosha ndeyokuti autolock rakavimbika iri zvikuru novimba zvinhu iro kugadzirwa sezvo Repshnur uye huru tambo. Zvinganaka nyoro zvinhu.

Common zvikanganiso

Beginners kudzidzira yakabatana autoblock kazhinji kubvumira zvinotevera zvikanganiso zvakafanana:

• Panguva kushandiswa, rwakabata gungano mutsva kunogona gamha raiva pedyo nebundu pacharo yemichindwe. Izvi vaizongoguma kutungamirira kuti chokwadi kuti nyaya ruoko zvashata reflexively shure, zvichiguma raiva pedyo nebundu zvinopera, uye mberi mutoro iri haachatauri zvakananga ruoko. Chokwadi, kudzivirira donhwe nokuda kuitwa muchanza chete zvisingabviri, asi nokuti kukanganisa hwakazara nenhamo. Kuti adzivise, haufaniri kusudurutsa raiva pedyo nebundu pacharo ruoko uye kudhonza kuti anotsigira tambo.
• Pasinei chokwadi kuti mashoko pamusoro rwakabata chikwata chiri nyore uye muchikoro ichi kukwira zvavo anopiwa nguva yakawanda, beginners zvakadaro zvakare uye zvakare uye kubvumira kukanganisa zvikuru zvinotevera: dzokubatanidza kukwana uwandu ritenderere chinoumba netambo, kana, nekusiyana - ane kunyanya nhamba. Muchiitiko chokutanga, zvingangoita kuti imwe chimurenga inongova asingakwanisi kuchengeta kutiza mitoro. A nyore kupfeka kungaita imwe inondimukira kuwa. In rechipiri - iri raiva pedyo nebundu yavharwa panguva pakufamba kusvikira zvizere zvechizarira.
• Kushandisa chete mbiru kwenguva refu. Kunyange rakasimba Repshnur vapedzisire fray, kunyanya zvinhu zvikuru udzvanyiriri. Zvinofanira kuva vanyatsohuongorora kuzoongorora tambo kuti kukuvadzwa pamberi neimwe kushandiswa.
• Kazhinji zvinhu sezvo gungano inishuwarenzi kubata. Sei wakabatanidzwa kuti rive yakavimbika? Zvinofanira kucherechedzwa kuti kureba vakasununguka mugumo akavasunungurira Repshnur haafaniri kupfuudza kureba wake ruoko. Zvikasadaro, panguva yaikosha haagoni chete kusvika kuna huru tambo.
• Munguva kufamba raiva pedyo nebundu kusundwa noruoko, pane kufamba rwake (ona ya. First), kana kudhonza hayo kumigumo netambo. Kukundikana chechipiri nguva kungaita kuti paumbwe overlaps, izvo chaizvo zinyekenyeke rokuona gungano.
• Pakupedzisira, zvakajeka zvinofanira kutevera kubva pamusoro apa mutemo: pakukora chikuru tambo anofanira rimwe nehafu nguva kupfuura tambo ukobvu. Zvisingagamuchirwi Ivan Kuchin ukama, uye kunyange chete dhayamita pamusoro tambo haana achabatsirawo kuti simba raiva pedyo nebundu yakatarwa.