Fashion: pakutanga remakore rechi20 muEurope uye Russia

Muzana remakore rechimakumi maviri pane kunge zviitiko vakawanda vakaita zvakawanda zvakawanwa iyo pakupedzisira akashandura nyika. I mwoyo uye mapfekero. Nokuda zviitiko nguva tiri muzuva redu ona vakadzi akapfeka mbatya uye kugeza masutu kuti aimbova zvachose impermissible, asi zvinofadza kuti "kumukira" trendy kwakaitika pakutanga kwezana remakore rechi20?

Zvakakurukurwa fashoni pakutanga remakore rechi20

Pakazosvika mangwanani remakore rechi20 yakaramba chete unhu mufashoni, sezvo mukupera kwezana remakore rechi19. Women aipfeka zvisakafanira chaizvo. Panguva ino vasikana vaipfeka madhirezi pasi, mufashoni vakanga vachiri yakakwirira heti uye rakarukwa, rinorema mbava majasi. Ladies kusvikira pakutanga kwezana remakore vachiri pasi kusagadzikana corsets, izvo zvinogona kusvika masendimita 45 ari girth nechemuchiuno uye aigona saka kuparadza utano, raiva rokupedzisira mashanga pamberi kuramba ichi nguo chizenga zvakakwana. Zvakanga zvakakodzera kuchinja chinhu, uye nguva nenguva dzakawanda kuchinja mapfekero akatanga kutora nzvimbo.
Makore tanga remakore rechi20 uchiri anoratidza kuguma yapfuura remakore. Designers vakatevera Art Nouveau mhanya, vakatonga ari unyanzvi. Mukadzi airatidzika kuva zvechikadzi chaizvo, Airy uye neprizemlennoe zvisikwa.

Vakadzi sezvairi kwezana remakore rechi20

Asi vamwe zvakagadzirwa vakatanga kuonekwa pakutanga chaipo muna 1900. Kana yapfuura vakadzi vaipfeka A-zvakaumbwa madhirezi chimiro, muzana rokutanga gumi, vakatsiviwa zvakawanda zvakakodzera pazvidya outfits. A dzamira corsets kutsiviwa yakaderera-muchiuno corsets kutanga nyoro mukuru muchiuno, uye ipapo chose arega kushandiswa. Pamberi 1906 zvakanga zvakakurumbira zvikuru kwazvo pamusoro dzisimbe kuti kujekesa kusvikira kugokora uye chiningoningo. kuchinja izvi rakauya chaizvo kwakachinja Zvinoonekwa nevakadzi.

Very refu mufashoni "hourglass", iro kwaisanganisira akasvibirira hudyu, rakamanikana chaizvo muchiuno uye zvakawanda pachipfuva, riri mukadzi mhando uye kuedza kubudirira tichibatsirwa mbatya, fashoni akashandura kuti zvimwe "mativi" uye Chakarerutswa siluetti. Zvakavaomera, uye dzimwe nguva vachibayira runako, akatsiviwa nguva imwe neimwe kushanda uye kunyaradzwa, saka yakaisvonaka hafu vanhu akasangana zvakagadzirwa nokutsigira kwakakwana uye mubereko. By yechipiri yezana gumi, pashure kunyangarika corset muchiuno akasimbisa RIBBONS. Floor-urefu madhirezi pfupi pachiziso.

Designers kunge yekudyidzana ari siluetti zvokupfeka vakadzi nyore, zvichiita yakananga. Madhirezi vakasonanidza kare navanopinda muchiuno kana zvachose nepritalennymi.

Zvakanga yakakurumbira mbatya, yaiva hwomutambarakede madhirezi nokuti mifananidzo yakasiyana yebasa. Akawana mukurumbira wayo sezvo mudhudhudhu chifukidzo dzezvipfeko kana kutyaira motokari, uye ngowani-boater kuti kufamba kuchovha, tenesi, uye zvakawanda.

zvishongedzo

Changed fashoni uye zvikwama. Pakutanga kwezana remakore achiri akapfeka masaga diki, asi ivo pashure makore mashoma zvikuru uye capacious zvikuru.

Kunyanya kusimbisa akaiswa pamusoro muchimiro heti. Ladies vanoda kupfeka wokuenzanisira pamwe navanopinda muromo siyana zvishongo muchimiro minhenga, RIBBONS, marozari. Hat - chakakosha chishongedzo chero fashionista. Pakazopera zana remakore rakanga mapfekero ngowani pamwe dangling minda pasi, nokuvhara zvishoma chiso. Footwear akanga yakatetepa ne pasi zvitsitsinho uye yakashongedzwa RIBBONS siyana uye mabhatani.

Jewelry zvakare ndavhiyiwa kuchinja: oma mazano akanga chikatsiviwa kwakanaka pamusoro, mabwe anokosha akanga yakatsiviwa Semi-anokosha matombo uye enamel, porcelain akatanga kushandiswa kakawanda. Nemamwe mashoko, kwezvishongo vava nyore uye zvakawanda nechibereko.

Hair nezvaari

In fashoni kwakanga revatongi pallor, izvo vakadzi vanoedza kusimbisa yakawanda sezvingabvira achishandisa upfu uye siyana ganda rakanga rachena vamiririri (semuenzaniso, ndimu muto). Makeup akashandisa ari mashoma. Lipsticks kushandiswa, asi ruvara aifanira kuva chaizvo madzedzerere. Eyes akasimbisa shoma mumvuri. Bright make-kukwira kwainzi zvakaipa chimiro.

Akanga mufashoni chaizvo kugadzirwa musoro unonzi "muMarseilles chinozunguzirwa" vakakwira pamwe Marseille Grato. Achibatsirwa inopisa nembato nemazvo kuninira ari bvudzi.

Nemhaka chinyararire mabhaisikopo manyorerwo pfupi haircut akapinda 1909, uye mukurumbira wavo ikaramba iripo kwenguva refu nemhaka World War First, kana vakadzi, achibatsira vakakuvadzwa muzvipatara Aisagona nehanya bvudzi ravo.

Pakutanga rokupedzisira remakore akapa nyika ikozvino rizivikanwe rakarukwa zvose - ". Hweta" "mativi" uye

Asi bvudzi refu yaiva mufashoni pfupi ndima. Vasikana vakada bvudzi inoyerera (yakananga kana rakamonana) kuunganidza ari fundo shure.

Vana fashoni

Vasikana ipapo vaipfeka madhirezi kuti ibvi kuna mhando sezvo kuti mukuru vakadzi vanopedza dzavo chaizvo nowenyika nightgowns. Zvivanakire, mitambo akaonekwa ruoko nemapfekero emaoko. Uye sezvo shangu zvaipfekwa shangu vatema kana majombo pamwe mabhatani kana kupetura pamwe resi.

Vakanga vakapfeka amakwai masokisi kana masokisi uye magiravhusi.

Evanhu fashoni

Asi zvipfeko evanhu pasina kuchinja. Achiri kuchinja uye vakasununguka dzokupfeka. Men vaipfeka mutirauzi, majasi, jasi refu iri pasi nokudenga, kunyange mumazuva edu. Large neketani dzomumakumbo refu dzokurwa mbava mhuka, anowanzoshandurwa yaipfekwa munguva yechando nokuda yechipiri yezana remakore rechi19, nokurongerwa iro vakaenda pamwe "fivha ndarama", zvakare kubva fashoni.

Official uye pakuzvichenesa zviitiko vakaiswa pamusoro majasi, tuxedos, kungozvifunga.

Mupfungwa iyi, Chirungu King Edward 7 nguva idzodzo kwainzi manyorero mufananidzo dzevanhu sezvairi kwezana remakore rechi20. Zvinofungirwa kuti patange fashoni yose nemiseve pamusoro bhurukwa ake uye Tuck.

Zvinokosha kucherechedza kuti mbatya siluetti rava nokudenga kuti makirasi zvose: kuti vashandi kuti akapfuma. Asi, maererano, akasiyana chete unhu zvipfeko machira uye kusona.

In fashoni akaramba heti uye sepombi, asi achauya munhu unhu vanonzi muhari, yakanga zvaipfekwa pamwe nguo epamba.

Hair kuveurwa varume vainyanya pfupi. Ndebvu uye ndebvu vakanga chete ndebvu sheared kupfuura kumativi, apo, achangogara kakawanda yakaitwa chakasimba.

"Haute Couture"

Chokutanga gumi Zvinokoshawo maruva paiya inonzi Parisian "Haute Couture", iro zvaizoparadzirwa muEurope yose. Vava nevakawanda magazini fashoni, makadhi akatanga rakapa nezvenyaya iyi. Various kuratidzira uye anoratidza vakatsiviwa mumwe nomumwe.

Paris uye kusvikira nhasi anonzi guta guru fashoni, asi akanga atova remakore!

The couturier huru

Zhak Duse aida kuva rokupenda, asi kana vabereki vake vakafa, akagara nhaka apfuura nyaya iri kutengeswa andapeni. Saka, kushamwaridzana pachake nomuviri, pakutanga rokupedzisira remakore rakanga patsva ichi akagara nhaka kurimwa munzvimbo dzakawanda zvikuru mufashoni imba muParis, uye kumuonga, nyika akamboona vazhinji madhirezi akanaka. Zvinobatsirawo chaizvo kuva nomukurumbira fashoni vagadziri akadai Pol Puare uye Madeleine Vionnet.

A rakakura munhoroondo fashoni aita kuti yekare muzvinashawo amburera - kare vanotaurwa Pol Puare, uyo akazova akagadzira guru. Ndiye madhirezi nyore nokubvisa navo petticoat uye corset-lining. Uye kuti wakaatapudza siketi kwaari muzviziso. Akagadzira zvakare embellished nguo kwazvo, nekuti kwaari iye nomwoyo wake kugona sezvo asina kusiyana-siyana. Pol Puare akasunungura dzakaunganidzwa majasi ari necheSalvic mhanya, chakasiyana yakasiyana zvitarisiko uye runako mapatani, zvishongo.

Zina Paken - wokutanga hadzi couturier. Iye pamwe nomurume wake Isidor Paken akasika fashoni imba, iyo yave akabudirira chaizvo. Madhirezi inopfekwa vakadzi vake kuunganidza zvose pamusoro munyika.

Russian sezvairi kwezana remakore rechi20

Chii chakaitika mbatya necheSalvic nyika nguva? Vakadzi fashoni mukuvamba remakore rechi20, Russia auya pasi chinokosha vasisanetswi Art Nouveau manyorerwo uye rose rakanga pasi zvinenge zvakafanana kuchinja sezvo muEurope. Uyewo akachinja siluetti ane nhete muchiuno, asi zvikuru mazamu, zvikuru rectangular, uye akakodzera.

Vaiva nevakawanda fashoni magazini, akadai "mufashoni", "Paris fashoni". Paiva kunyange kuzivikanwa Russian mufashoni imba. Kune mapikicha kwezana remakore rechi20 vakawanda. Fashion muna Russian Empire akanga tichifambirana munyika fashoni.

Asi mhiri European simba, Russian nefashoni yekudyidzana pachena kuti vokuJapan nemhaka yehondo wokuRussia-Japanese. Izvi zvinonyanya kuoneka mune rakarukwa fashionistas vaiedza kusika kuburikidza bvudzi rake pamusoro wake yakakwirira kwazvo kukwira mhando rakarukwa Japanese Geisha.

Imwe fashoni vakadzi Russian vakasiyana European zvakawanda zvakajeka akasiyana-siyana. Madhirezi vakanga zvakakwana yechitema, kusiyana neyamapani kiyi mavara ose outfits European. Vaivawo zvakawanda zvemaoresa pane kuMadokero. Madhirezi anogona sheathe pamuchinjikwa, nezvakarukwa, mijenya pamusoro norwonzi uye vamwe vakawanda.

Fur akaramba mukurumbira. Ladies chando kazhinji kumbopfeka batira.

Zvinokosha kutaura unhu akakurumbira vakabatsira kuti Russian fashoni. Somuenzaniso, French akaberekerwa Rene Brizak akasika yakakurumbira fashoni imba muSt Petersburg. Uye Olga Bulbenkova akasika workshop apo vanoita umbozha rokwe apo kunyange vakasonanidza madhirezi empresses nguva. Paiva yakawanda fashoni vagadziri muna Russian Empire.

mhedziso

Pakutanga kwezana remakore rechimakumi maviri kwakatungamirira kuchinja mapfekero. Weighting uye up zvirevo vakachinja nyore uye wakadekara. Ladies vakarega akapfeka zvakanaka corsets, madhirezi vakava mupfupi, lightweight, chimiro-kufanira, ane zvishoma raidudzwa muchiuno, asi akaramba chete zvechikadzi uye akanaka pasi Art Nouveau manyorerwo. Kunyange nyore Kushongedzwa, asi yakarongedzwa madhirezi uye heti vakasara achiri siyana zvikuru uye zvinofadza: zvakasiyana-siyana resi, marozari, minhenga, RIBBONS.

Nechekwokutanga kwezana remakore rechi20, paiva nenhamba, apo pasi rose vakasvika pakuzivikanwa chikuru fashoni uye huru vagadziri avo, kuburikidza kuunganidza dzavo uye madhirezi akarova fashionistas kubva pasi pose.

Russian fashoni Zvisinei atora pamusoro zvakawanda Europe, uye European mufashoni kuti atora yakawanda Russian. Somuenzaniso, majasi, vakagadzira muna necheSalvic manyorero.

Kwave kuchinja, uchiteverwa rinotevera trendy "chimurenga" remakore rechi20, nemhaka iyo isu nhasi kuona zvipfeko chii: nyore uye yakakodzera.